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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK - You guys have helped me tremendously in the past, and I want you to know I appreciate your input. This has been very frustrating, because brake systems are in principle pretty basic, but there's still a lot I don't know on the high-performance end of the scale.

If you remember, I had a heavy wrist one night and got an answer the age-old question "What happens when the unstoppable force meets the immoveable disc-lock???" - Answer: "It turns your rotor into a taco /images/icons/frown.gif"

So -
I got the rims back for my RC51. They put the new EBC street rotors on the front rim, and I installed new EBC HH pads on the front as well.
The problem now is that when I put the wheel on, the wheel doesn't spin freely. /images/icons/frown.gif

If I push the pads all the way back into the caliper, the wheel spins freely. But once I pump the brakes so the pads make contact, it's like they are not letting go completely. (BTW this happens with both sides - Since the disc lock f*cked up the left side, I tried each caliper separately to see if one or the other was causing the problem by itself - but both are) I assume that a sticking caliper on one side wouldn't affect the other side [???]

The pads seem to be square against the rotors, but it's hard to tell for sure from the way they're mounted.
I tried shimming the calipers with a couple of washers so they were further "inboard" (i.e. same as shimming the rotors outward) (On the RC, the outboard pad has more travel than the inboard pad) I think I reached the max on how far I could shim them, but it didn't seem to help at all anyway.

From your experience does this have to do with the way the pads/calipers are grabbing the rotors (wrong angle, or too far in or out) - should I try to shim the rotors out as well?
or is it possible the caliper mount or something else is still bent out of shape /images/icons/crazy.gif???
or should I be looking for something else wrong with the system? (The brakes were working fine until the disc-lock incident)
or should I just give up and take it in to have it serviced? And is this something anybody can do, or should I get a Honda Certified Mechanic to work on it?


Thanks again for your help! /images/icons/cool.gif
- Steve

 

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hmmm Bad_Dog.. The caliper mounts are cast if I'm correct.. I don't think they would bend, more like break. You would think that you only did damage to the one side and not both. I did the same thing last summer, but I was pushing my bike and just went over in a controled drop..

<font color=red>SilverF4/images/icons/cool.gif
<font color=blue>"Respect the Wrist!!!" <font color=red>Brok! Brok!
 

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There will be some drag, as the pads will never completely lose contact with the rotor when spinning the wheel by hand. Take it for a spin, and if the bike slows excessively (clutch in and coasting), there's possibly something wrong. Don't write things off until you've ridden it around a bit though.

If you have bent the caliper mount (which I doubt, but is possible), you're looking at about $50 for the bracket, and $230ish for the lower fork leg if those tabs are bent.

-nominal_squid-
SMUSA #11
 

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Take it out and do a couple of hard stops to bed the pads then see if there's a change.

 

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Brake drag is VERY normal for a while, and even once you've got the pads worn a little. Especcially when you change rotors and pads. No fret yet man.

<font color=red>follow the leader..."he's on a honda, mine!"</font color=red>
 

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Bad-
New brake pads/rotors need about 40 miles to bed. That means NO hard stops. Start off with easy braking and work your way to harder stops. Are your new rotors direct replacements for the stocks? I wouldn't think you should need to shim the calipers. After 30 or 40 miles lift the front wheel and check for a small amount of drag. There should be a little, not much. You may to wish to check the torque valve on the front axle nut.
...Glenn
 

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BD~ When I upgraded my brakes/lines the pads were a bit tight against the rotor. I just wrote it off as being "new and snug" and then took it out for a spin. Nothing to crazy just to make sure everything was sitting properly. Sure enough when I got back everything was fine.

 

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I have to agree. With EBC pads you'll need to allow some break in time which is why I plan to try Vesrah this year since they don't have or need a break in period. You should have atleast 2-3 full rotations out of your front wheel. If not after you need to insure you putting your wheel and calipers back on in the correct order. I'm not sure if your bike is the same as for the F4i so read your manual it does tell you in there the correct order. You'll notice a huge difference just by putting things on in order. You can shim the calipers if you need to, I wouldn't do the discs themselves though. Main thing is get things on in the right order and tighten them in the right order and torque them done to correct specs. If you still find you are having problems after installing the wheel and calipers in the correct order and you've put some miles on the pads then you need to have some measurements taken to see if your fork legs are tweaked a bit. One way not sure if you have a machine shop local but you could take it to one if you do and explain what measurement you want taken (of course just bringing the forks to them)! They should be able to put the forks in some V blocks and indicate it in level and then with a height gage and a dial indicator they should be able to find the exact height of each mounting ear for the calipers. They may even be able to fix them by doing some welding or machining if they have time.
 

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I don't know anything about the bike, but the EBC rotors are semi-floating. so they move (float) inbetween the pads untill pressure is applied. You will always have some kind of drag when you spin the wheel even after you have broken them in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the advice everyone. At least I know it's not just me /images/icons/smile.gif. When I spin the wheel by hand, I can't even get a full revolution out of it. I will try putting on a few miles and see how they sit. Hopefully that's all it is and I can get this thing on the road again soon.

I guess I owe you guys a round on me - what's everybody having? /images/icons/smile.gif

 

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I hope we hear from him again after the break-in ride! I would think that no matter what was replaced with 'who-cares' what parts that you could get more than one rotation out of the tire! just my thought [:)]

Mr.Joshua
 

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Did you check the calipers and see if the pistons were not binding up or maybe dirty. My 7r does the same but I get a full turn or two, but i hear them. No noticable effect while coasting with engine off.

 
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