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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gang, I need some help and guidance from the racers in here that have raced the Suzuki Srad's. I picked up a '97 GSX-R 600 with a fresh '99 motor the other day. Race prepped, the whole nine yards. I need help with set-up, and possible things to look out for. Any help greatly appreciated. Details about the bike in the Suzuki foum.

Thanks in advance!

<font color=blue>JSmith</font color=blue>/images/icons/cool.gif
<font color=red>Mile High SportBike Association (MHSBA)</font color=red>
 

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That bike doensn't happen to be red and formerly owned by Sil does it? That bike sounds very familiar. Hmmmmmmmm... /images/icons/laugh.gif

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nope, it's not Sil's bike, but I did call him about it. I ended up getting the bike from a guy named Drew in Colorado Springs. '97 GSX-R 600 with a fresh '99 motor. I'm realy excited to get out to the track and play!!!!!!!

<font color=blue>JSmith</font color=blue>/images/icons/cool.gif
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Perhaps you could start by telling us what you have (pipe, steering dampner, brake lines, fox/penske/ohlins rear shock, 520 chain conversion, jet-kit, K&N, re-valving and re-sprung front suspension......etc. Let us know what the bike has and I (we) will help you out. I race a 1998 GSX-R 600 myself and could give you a few pointers on setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The bike has Sharkskinz bodywork, and a 520 conversion. Motor, pipe, carbs, brake lines, filter, and suspension are all stone stock. No damper on it. Sorry I didn't say that before./images/icons/smile.gif

<font color=blue>JSmith</font color=blue>/images/icons/cool.gif
<font color=red>Mile High SportBike Association (MHSBA)</font color=red>
 

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Well, if this is your first venture into racing, I would at least get a steering dampner. Most race organizations mandate them anyway. Next, you should get some steel/kevlar braided brake lines and racing pads (Vesrah or EBC HH Sintered) If you have additional funds AFTER YOU HAVE PURCHASED QUALITY SAFETY GEAR(THIS IS YOUR BODY, DON'T CHINCE ON SAFETY GEAR!) If you have funds left, put it into suspension. Fox/Penske Ohlins shock and send your forks to Max Mcallister of Traxxion Dynamics. A proper set-up and good suspension is the quickest way to shave off seconds from your lap times. The next piece of the puzzle is track time. You need track time and nothing else will make you faster except track time. Don't worry about more power for your bike right away. I have taken TLR 1000's and Gixxer 750's before (not on horespower, but getting better drives out of the turns.Obviously these guys will catch you on the straights, as they should, they have 15-25 more hp than us if not more) The point is, don't waste money on valve jobs and degreeing cams until your sliding around the turns like Roberts jr or Mcoy. If you get this fast, then you can work on some more power.
I used to think that having the newest and best of everything would quarantee me being fast, boy was I wrong! When you get smoked through a turn, (when you think you're flying) by a 46 year man (no offense 46+ year olds, this is kudos to the "ole fast guys") on a 10 year old FZR 600, you will know that skill and being SMOOTH are important factors (and balls) Sorry this response is long, but I have 9 years of experience that I am trying to share with you and hopefully you'll benefit and save time by listening to me. How about some other racer's opinions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey, thanks for the reply. I raced motocross through my teenage years, and now I'm getting the bug to go racing again. But on the roadracers this time. I'm compiling a list of stuff that I need for the bike. I was planning on brake lines, and pads. I have Goodridge stainless lines front and rear on my streetbike (pic on my profile), with EBC rotors and HH pads. I figured I would start there.

I also need to get a damper. The guy I bought the bike from had the frame mounted one all torn apart, so I just decided to get a new one. I'm not sure if I should get the frame mounted one, or a top mounted one like a Scotts. Since I don't know the ins and outs of these things, I could use a little guidance.

Exhaust and jet kit are in the works too. As is a good set of leathers and new boots. I have a pair of Sidi Vertebra's that I wear on the street, but they're getting pretty tired. I'm gonna get the new Race Vert's, but I have no idea what leathers to get. Any suggestions?

The most daunting thing for me is the suspension. I don't know jack about that stuff. I have no idea what it costs, or how to properly set it all up.

Track time is all taken care of. I tweaked my work schedule to be off on thursdays, which is the bike only open track day here at Second Creek raceway.

I go to the local races alot around here in Colorado, so I'm not a total newbie to the track. I did Reg Pridmore's CLASS school last season, and had an absolute riot!! Now I just want more track time.

Thanks again for the help. Hope to hear from you again!

<font color=blue>JSmith</font color=blue>/images/icons/cool.gif
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Steering dampner: A frame mounted one is cheaper, but susceptible to damage in the event of a crash. Do yourself a favor and spend the $60 and put some frame sliders on your bike. Probably the cheapest form of protection you can get.
Leathers: Vanson, SPIDI,Dainese,Kushitani,Spyke,Syed, Z-custom,Teknic. I hear the KOBE leathers carried by Marrieta Motorpsorts were decent (and cheap $799), but I saw them at the motorcycle show and wasn't impressed. When your ass is sliding on the pavement at 90 mph, you want the good stuff, beleive me. You should expect to drop between $800-1400 new, or around $400-800 used for a set that hasn't been pre-crash tested much.
Suspension: Send the forks to Max Macallister (or, wait until you have done some riding before you mess with suspension.) Typically you will put stiffer springs in the forks and if you want really sweet forks, have them re-valved as well. I knocked 2 seconds off of my lap times just by having Max put new springs, seals and fluid in my forks.(I couldn't afford the have hime re-valve them as well) New springs, seals, fluid and all labor totaled $275.
For the rear shock, I bought a Fox shock. You can adjust the ride height (I added 1 1/4 inch taller shock height in the rear) This will make your bike turn in quicker. I also dropped the front forks (lower) about 8mm. You don't want to drop the front too much, you will lose high speed stability.
Suspension is the tricky part. Understanding the fundamentals will help you understand what will happen when you make adjustments. Pre-load refers the spring pressure, more preload will make the front/rear suspension stiffer. Preload tightens/loosens the spring. Without the internals to control rebound/dampning, your suspension would be like a pogo stick.
Rebound controls how fast the forks/shock recover from being compressed. I believe rebound is an adjustable orafice that the fluid flows through. Enlarging or shrinking the orafice will change how fast the fork/shock can get back to standing/sitting position.
Compression slows or speeds up how quickly the fork/shock can compress. This part works like the rebound adjustment, it has an adjustable orifice that shrinks/enlarges to increase/decrease the ease of the movement of the "plunger" to go through the fluid quickly or slowly.
Finally, setting the ride height to you is Key. Go to www.traxxiondynamics.com and read some articles about setting your "sag." This is very important.
Man, I feel like I just wrote a frickin novel or something! I hope I didn't confuse you about suspension. I used to be like Cole Trickle in Days of Thunder where he knew nothing about cars and how they work. I decided to learn and now I know a bit more than I did a few years ago.
Good luck and I hope I have helped you a little.
 

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I was thinking scotts when I read this, just thinking of the possible damage a dampener frame mounted can take in a fall is pretty scary, esp since in racing your gonna go down.

Also for that matter I was thinking to keep stock rotors for a while and just upgrade to better pads and braided lines and flush the brake fluid so its nice and fresh for some mean track days.

Might as well hold on to the slicks for a while and just get some nice street tires and beat around on them for a while to learn the bikes qwirks and all, since depending on what slick you have, dont you wanna use tire warmers for em? I always see the racers use em, so its just an observation, not an informed opinion /images/icons/wink.gif

Gratz on the new bike man, cant wait to see you out there on her!

Sure is amazing how the new leathers this year have more armor in them. My leathers sure did good for what was asked of em, but I think they would of only had 2 more lowsides in em, as they did show some minor signs of wear on the leather, nothing real major tho, kinda lame except for the legs /images/icons/wink.gif hehe

Cya soon bro,

Duane

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