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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so always in the past I've had someone else put on a chain, or I ordered one directly from a dealer. This time I got one online and it's 120 links, my stocker is 106. Did I order the wrong one, or do I just trim it to fit? I bought it 2-3 months ago in anticipation of spring replacement so I can't exchange it now. I'm going 15/41, it's a DID 525 120 link.
Thanks for any advice,
larry
 

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Sounds like the right chain Ivick. Any one you get you'll end up having to remove a few links. I'm guessing you're riding a Falco since you've got the 41 tooth rear. Since you've already got the longer chain, my suggestion would be to forget the 15t front, and get a 43 tooth rear instead. It's slightly less of a change in gearing than the 15t front, which will make the bike more rideable. I swapped my 16t back in after about a month with the 15t. Didn't like it, even though it did add some punch. The problem was that you really needed to shift much quicker, since it would bang up to redline much faster. And it made first gear unusable for anything but wheelies (not that there's anything wrong with that). I think the 43t rear would be a nice compromise between the two. Only my opinion though. Other guys swear by the 15t sprocket.

<font color=red>MAD</font color=red><font color=white>FAL</font color=white><font color=blue>CO!</font color=blue>
 

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Larry, get yourself the March edition of Motorcyclist. There's a tutorial with pictures in the back on exactly how to do a chain...

Basically, you'll need a chain tool to cut the new chain down to size (I have a MotionPro heavy duty one), by pushing out the pin on the 106th link. I've also found the tool handy for pushing the side plates back into place. The best way to cut it is probably in place - The rear sprocket will hold the pieces together for you.

Basically, you want 105 because the master link will be the difference. The one they gave you is most likely a clip-type. You assemble it by passing the 2 pins through the links you want to join from behind. Put a generous amount of the grease they give you around where the pins emerge, and press the o-rings (x-ring, W-ring or whatever else the marketing folks came up with...) into place. Don't mind any excess grease, but you do want to be sure the INSIDE of the ring is pretty well full. Press the side-plate (tool's useful, but not necessary) on and install the clip so the CLOSED end faces TOWARDS the front sprocket on the TOP run of chain (in other words, the closed end goes towards the direction of travel).

You're done! Some guys like to wind a little safety wire around the clip just to make sure it never comes off. 1 loop and a couple twists to tighten it is all that's necessary.

Oh yeah - I strongly recommend replacing your sprockets (front and rear) at the same time. If they're worn, they can take out a new chain pretty quickly.

Scott /images/icons/smile.gif


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the feedback, I've mounted chains before, but it was always an OEM replacement, ie. exact fit. I tried 16/42 and was underwhelmed, stil felt luggy below 5k, still can't use 6th gear, so I figured I'd go to 15/41, heard a lot of raves about that. anyway, I'll let ya know,
larry
 

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The safety wire around the clip is good but not an absolute.
What I've found to work best is to use your chain break tool and pull the side plate to the clip pinching it some.
The clip will not only not fall off, you can't even remove it untill you press the side plate off of it.

<font color=blue>Accelerate 'till you see God, then brake.
 

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<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

stil felt luggy below 5k, still can't use 6th gear

<hr></blockquote>

Are you running an aftermarket Eprom and pipes? I have no problem using 6th gear with the Renes and Factory Pro chip. Usually don't use 6th till about 70 mph, but definitely pulls well if I juice it from there. Also pulls well below 5k.

<font color=red>MAD</font color=red><font color=white>FAL</font color=white><font color=blue>CO!</font color=blue>
 
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