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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok....Im finally getting around to doing somthing about my leaky seals in my forks..

Heres my shopping list for Race-Tech stuff what do I have that I dont need Or what have I forgotten

Im an above average rider (I can get my knee down but Im not a racer) is this over kill?.... Should I get valves and springs or could I get away with just one or the other.

The only thing wrong with my bike is the leaking seals I hjust thought that since I was going to have the forks off and apart I could do some upgrading

Springs ---- FRSP S3825100 RT FRK SPR 38.2x25.0x250 1.0kg ---- $109.99
Valves ---- FMGV S2040 FORK GOLD VALVE - 20x6mm ---- $159.99
Oil ---- US1 US-1 ULTRA SLICK LIGHT (qt) [email protected] $24.99 ---- $49.98
Bushings ---- FMBI 43201 P FORK BUSH INNER-43x20x1 PAIR ---- $19.99
Seals ---- FSOS 43C P FORK SHOWA OIL SEAL PAIR 43mm ---- $21.98
Washer ---- FMCW 1015 COPPER WASHER - 10x15mm ---- $1.99

Total Product Cost $363.92

Thanks


Aaron
 

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Friend of mine just did all that. Said it made for a world of diffrence. I am planning on doing it to my track bike for grins. Just some advise--friend used Race Tech oil and said it sucked, made the forks real sticky. Went to an Amsoil or Klotz (cant remember) and said it was like there was no friction at all
 

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I only see one set of seals , there are 2 seals per fork . Like mentioned get the springs for your weight , dont go to stiff for the road , race tech's fork oil is great but not needed , ive had great luck with motorex and maxima in the past at a much cheaper price. Last the bushing may not be needed , they dont need to be replaced that often .
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The guys over at Fireblades are raving about Dan Kyle up in Monterey...The cost is similar..anyone else done any business with him...whats their turnaround time
 

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What weight oil is that? The weight will make a big difference for you.
I used a different weight than what RaceTech suggested. Absolutely love my new front end. I went 2 1/2 turns on the emulators.
 

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On a bike with gold valves you should only run 5 weight oil . Adjustment with the clickers will do the rest . If you hit the max or minimun the shim stack needs to be removed and a shim added or removed . 5 wieght oil doesnt break down as easy or as fast as thicker oils , thats the reasoning behind this , it keeps the front dampening constant longer .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Zoey..I dont know the work order you build on line dosent specify.....did you follow their recomendations on the spring compresion rate to use...
 

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When you buy the RaceTech Emulators there is a access code on the top of the instructions. Take this code to the RaceTech web site and type it in (can't remember exactly where) and they will give you all of the specifics.

I did use their race sag specifications but I dropped my forks 3mm in the trees.

THIS might be helpful to you.

My initial info was:
10mm preload
9mm above the tripple trees but my front wheel was hitting the bodywork so I went with 3mm.
20wt oil
2.5 turns on the emulators
.90 springs

I set my front sag between 20-30mm and my rear sag between 25-30mm. This was the settings for the track. You might find this to be too harsh for the street though.
I would be glad to help you via the phone if you would like. PM me your phone # if you do.
 

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Lp Part # 123-0180 $19.95 retail
124-1300 to 1305 depending on color $19.95
124-1200 to 1205 depending on color $19.95
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
RoadRacer98..and TerraMask..thanks.....much more reasonable..

terra...BTW I did look on LP's site..but whoever designed their site wasnt thinking of normal users....it jsucks big time..where were thoes located..ordo you have the catalog?
 
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